The Monday Media Diet with Drew Nieporent

On soup dumplings (and restraint!), Jackson Hole, and Ruth Reichl

Drew Nieporent is a culinary deep cut known for shaping the trajectory of New York’s restaurant scene over the last four decades. He’s behind well-known names like Montrachet, Tribeca Grill, Bâtard, Rubicon, and Nobu in New York and London. Buy his new book here.

Tell us about yourself.

I live in the world of food. For my entire life, I have been motivated by thinking about food, eventually I became a restaurateur, opening over 40 restaurants in 40 years, including the world-famous Nobu. I have a wonderful life which I share with my wife, Ann, and my two children – Andrew, an accomplished musician, and Gabrielle, who works in theater.

I grew up in New York City, which gave incredible exposure to diverse cuisines as well as experiences. My education led me from Stuyvesant High School to Cornell University, and eventually to opening my first restaurant, Montrachet, in 1985, which earned a three-star review from The New York Times. Robert DeNiro, who was a regular customer, suggested we partner on another restaurant, which became Tribeca Grill in 1990. That partnership lasted 35 years, and together we went on to open other restaurants, including Nobu.

Describe your media diet.

I wake up in the morning and hit the treadmill for a workout, during which I turn on “Morning Joe” (I record it every day), which gives me the world news (which I usually watch on fast-forward). I then read copious amounts of The New York Times, The Washington Post, AirMail, The New Yorker, and (unfortunately) The New York Post.

I also love watching documentaries on sports, music, and politics. I also try to stay current with newly released movies, especially from directors I admire, like Steven Soderbergh, Martin Scorsese, and Francis Ford Coppola.

What’s the last great book you read?

Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil by John Berendt. It was sent to me by a friend who lives in Savannah. I’m not a big fiction reader, but I really enjoyed this.

I just finished reading a book on food called The Fourth Star by Leslie Brenner about the opening of Daniel Boulud’s restaurant in 2002. Obviously, books about the restaurant industry are compelling to me, and I’ve accumulated several that sit on my bookshelf unread, so now I’m in the habit of working through them one by one.

What are you reading now?

The Upstairs Delicatessen by Dwight Garner. I just started it, but I am familiar with the author, who is a critic for The New York Times Book Review.

What’s your reading strategy when you pick up a print copy of your favorite publication?

I love to read in the sauna, which understandably has its challenges. The pages of magazines can stick together and fall apart. Newspapers are easier, but they stain your hands with ink, as does the cover of a book if it’s black. When I’m traveling, I love to read magazines on the plane and in quiet moments at my hotel.

Who should everyone be reading that they’re not?

I love all of Ruth Reichl’s books, which are very informative and relay terrific experiences. Her most recent book is worth checking out, called The Paris Novel. Another former food critic, Moira Hodgson, wrote, It Seemed Like a Good Idea at the Time in 2008, which I thought was a wonderful memoir of food and travel.

What is the best non-famous app you love on your phone?

I tend to like sports apps, and as a lifelong New York Jets fan, the Jets app is a one-stop app for info, stats, and my season tickets. I also love using the innovative MyChart, which tracks your medical history and doctor’s appointments.

Plane or train?

I prefer planes, though the delays have become increasingly frequent and are absolutely mind-boggling.

What is one place everyone should visit?

Unquestionably, everyone should visit Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Its physical beauty is like no other. It’s a remarkable place that I gravitate back to on an annual basis – and it’s got a fantastic food scene.

Tell us the story of a rabbit hole you fell deep into.

Throughout my entire life, I’ve battled weight issues from an early age. I tend to latch onto certain foods and become obsessed with them. Currently, that obsession is soup dumplings. I would travel anywhere and everywhere to find delicious soup dumplings, and am constantly being disappointed. Now, because I’m on GLP-1s (and have currently lost 40 pounds), I haven’t eaten a soup dumpling in 120 days – but I still crave them. (DN)