The Saddle Stitch Edition

On craft, luxury, and history

Colin here. I recently binged the Hermès edition of Acquired. For those that haven't indulged, the “depth-first podcast” is a deep dive, X-ray scan of a range of companies, from Costco to LVMH to Novo Nordisk, typically featuring key employees, and often running beyond the four-hour mark. The show is a blend of history and business strategy, and the host’s infectious enthusiasm and curiosity make it an engaging listen. 

The entire pod is a pleasant counter to the quick bit, bouillon cube hits of culture we get from short-form video. Complex topics are allowed to breathe, and the companies they feature certainly warrant the investigation. The Hermès edition is chock full of little details: the term savoir-faire is mentioned in their annual report 133 times; it takes two years to train as an entry level artisan for the brand. But they rightfully seized on a perfect little detail that underpins all of the brand's leatherwork: the saddle stitch. 

Why is this interesting?

The saddle stitch is somewhat technical. When working with thick leather, like on a saddle, two needles – coated in beeswax – loop around each other to create a strong elegant and accurate seam. 

If one stitch breaks, the damage is self-contained and doesn't spill over to another stitch. It is massively overkill, and that is the point. The craft and process is antithetical to mass-produced goods and is a good representation of what actual luxury is: based on effort, rare, and made to last. 

According to Permanent Style: "[Saddle stitching] is stronger and yet more flexible than any stitch a machine can work, and cannot be replicated by a machine because its needle cannot change direction."

A memorable tidbit from the pod comes from Hermès’ Executive Chairman Axel Dumas. The company still uses the saddle stitch because it offers quality that cannot yet be replicated by a machine. But, contrary to what you would think, they aren’t overly precious about it, suggesting if a better technological advance comes along, so be it. Dumas asserts: “We are a business, not a museum." (CJN) 

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Thanks for reading,

Noah (NRB) & Colin (CJN)

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